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| | #1 |
| | Rudimentary cog fitting question guys - i got my brand new sprockets for my rear double fixed wheel build. in terms of fitting these, before I screw them on do they need any special cog juice (thread lock?!) or can i whack em on ride up a hill and give the lock rings a good tightening? any help/tips gratefully received. Ved |
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| | #4 |
| | And it's a good idea to back off a few turns here and there whilst you're doing the first fitting - spreads the grease around/makes sure threads running neatly. And a smear of grease on the shoulder where it will end up contacting the hub. If you don't have a chainwhip to tighten the sprocket (I think a lot of people over-tighten anyway), you could just butt the front wheel up against a wall, and apply a bit of pressure on the pedals. |
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| | #6 | |
| | Quote:
And surely if the sprocket isnt fully tight, thread wear is more likely? You probably know better than me, thats just what ive always thought... | |
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| | #8 |
| | On one occasion, after over-tightening a sprocket with a chainwhip (then deciding to remove it before it was ridden), I bent 2 cheapish chainwhips trying to remove it, before taking it to Condor and watching them bend another chainwhip, then resort to fitting a length of pipe over a Dura-Ace one and wrestling with it for 5 minutes. You just can't put that kind of force through the cranks, even in a low gear from a standing start. I now tighten sprockets 'just-so' with the whip, and usually notice that when I come to remove the sprocket (if switching to a different riding discipline), it takes about the same amount of force with the chainwhip to remove it. Never stripped hub threads. There's a world of difference between loose, fully tight, and over-tight. It's something you get a feel for over time... |
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