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| | Quote:
put it this way, Manchester spec 165 on all track bikes, they say 170s only on bikes with "manchester spec" ie; an even higher BB. and you use eggbeater pedals, which have a low profile and won't clip as soon as flatties with clips n' straps will. to summarise: you'll be fine.. the instance when you may come close to a strike can only be cutting sharply up the steepest part of the banking at a low speed which isn't gonna happen unless you are on mushrooms | |
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| | #4 |
| | What RPM said. Are you a spinner or a masher? Choice of sprocket to suit. If you're switching to deep drops for the first time, you might feel it in your lower back the following few days. You might also consider moving your saddle forward 5-10mm, compared to your road set-up. |
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| | #6 |
| | If you're intending on getting an explosive out-of-the-saddle jump during the last lap of a race, when they've already wound up the pace, a 15t will better facilitate this. However, a lot of juniors riding the equivalent of 48x16 seem to be able to just crank up the revs even more when push comes to shove. |
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| | #12 |
| | I use 170's on ALL the tracks whether in or outdoors, my frames have 11 1/2 BB height. apart from one Fort look alike and that's lower and I've never clonked any track with that either. Have used 175's too.....a prob spinning the buggers though Ribbles advise to use as close a track length cranck to your road bike as is feasible- makes sense, but do check BB height though. As said peddle width/height is worth watching- I use straps and clips on various pedals inc Campag Pista's so have full height and width to be a little wary of. If I remember, Calshot has the steepest banking now, and I think that's 45 degrees (although it feels steeper at times- parp factor!). I guess if you use a road frame as fixed bike, you may get into bother. |
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