| Upcoming: Fixed #2 Launch Party, LFGSS Xmas Party |
| | #1 |
| | Rim choice for fixed wheel TT bike. I'm in the process of getting together the parts to put together a TT bike. I have a pair of lurvley Goldtech hubs in the pewter anodised finish but I'm agonising over rim choice and colour. The Open Pros on my Pompino commuter seem to be really good but I was thinking something a bit more aero may be in order. I can't afford and don't want carbon, but I want something durable enough so that I can use the bike as a summer/nice weather road bike too. I guess the obvious choice are Deep V's or those new deep section rims that BLB(?) are selling (H.Son or something), or maybe one of those on the front and an Open Pro ceramic on the back. As for colour I should probably have gone for black hubs in hindsight and then black rims would have looked cool. Being not very artistic at all I can't visualise the hubs with coloured rims so any input there is greatly recieved too. Cheers Peace Kurt |
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| | #3 |
| | navigator pista seems an ok off the peg wheelset. In terms of rims, I cant really help with any specific advice. But worth mentioning (obvious sorry) that less spokes will make a wheel more aero. The navigator seem to have the golden number of 28, which is plenty durable for a training/everday bike, while still light weight & aero. |
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| | #5 |
| | My hubs are drilled 28 front and 32 rear. I was going to go with 2 cross front and 3 cross rear with DB spokes. Open Pros really were my first choice, I was interested in whether the aero advantages of a deep rim outweighed the weight penalty. @ all who have posted-Thanks for the input so far Peace Kurt |
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| | #6 |
| | Deep sections might give you a small edge if you're in the sub-hour for 25 mile class. You could always get some CXP33s - don't weigh much more than Open Pros. You'll save a lot more time if you get some tribars, and do some specific training with them. In fact, even wearing a skinsuit will save you more time than deep sections. |
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| | #8 | |
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http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/a...rodynamics.htm But i agree with most of the rest. Your body is the least aero part of the equation and also the motor so training and tuning an aero position will save masses more time than funky wheels. Funky wheels come when you're 'almost' winning your TTs and want to beat the fecker in the funny hat on the funny bike. You can buy speed, but what's the point, unless you're almost winning races on ability alone? | |
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| | #11 | |
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I've got some cheap aero bars and bullhorns on the Pompino which looks a bit odd to some, and I've been commuting regularly 25 miles round trip, and getting out for 30-35 miles at a time on off days on a fairly spinny gear at the moment. Thanks to all as ever Peace Kurt | |
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| | #16 |
| | From experience, weights won't do squat (pun intended). Better to do 'on the bike weight training' - muscle tension stuff, standing starts, seated surges, blah. TTing is all lactate threshold stuff, so it's good to get a HR monitor or whatever (if you can't do it by perceived exertion) and ride lots of 5% over LT / 5% under LT sessions and stuff like that - there's probably millions of sessions detailed on the web, like the cptips site. Sheldon doesn't look like a tester to me. I still reckon a skinsuit is worth more than aero wheels, except rear discs at 27/28mph+. |
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| | #17 |
| | It wasn't Sheldon's data though, he'd got it from some German dude I think. The difference is close, I'll admit and if you added overshoes and funny hat to your skinsuit you'd be faster than running funky wheels for 1/10th the cost. The engine is still more important than all the kit. Train. |
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| | #19 |
| | achieving success (whether it be in races or just personal performance) is satisfying when it's a result of training. new bits are nice, but the novelty soon wears off and you still need to train. re leg shaving: reckon I was the only bloke at HH on saturday with hairy legs. as it's only 5 seconds I don't think I'll bother getting the mach3 out. |
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| | #21 | |
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Mind you, the satisfaction of beating loads of sci-fi testers that first week still feels good too. | |
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| | #22 |
| | Have a look at this page before thinking about Open Pros for TT (great rims otherwise, though). http://www.cbss.ca/tip11.htm |
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| | #23 | |
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The second piece will come when you show me you can bleed from your eyeballs doing hillsprints. | |
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| | #24 | |
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| | #26 | |
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http://www.cervelo.com/content.aspx?...i=Aerodynamics | |
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| | #28 | |
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| | #31 |
| | tubs are glue on only, sadly you can't put clinchers on them. It seems to be lodged in my head that there is no aero advantage for rims that are less than 40mm deep, so using deep-v's / CXP30's / CXP14's etc has little bearing. I do ride CXP30's however because they look nice and are pretty robust. Have the goldtech's in pewter also, they are sweet! Not too impressed with my spindles knurling over though as I can't get the caps off to change the bearings. I think I'd use the wheels you have and concentrate on training and tribars to get your time down, good luck! |
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| | #32 | |
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[FONT=Tahoma][SIZE=2]Paul Merlo's results indicated that the box shaped rim is very inefficient aerodynamically and it is hard to improve the characteristics of this type of wheel by changing the spoking pattern. Using aerodynamic spokes and reducing their number will decrease the drag on this type of wheel slightly, but using a standard aerodynamic rim such as the Campagnolo Omega or the Velocity aero has a greater influence on reducing drag. For instance, a wheel with 32 round spokes in a Campagnolo Omega rim had less drag than a wheel with 16 round spokes in a box shaped rim.[/SIZE][/FONT] | |
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