Home Made Mini D - Page 3 - London Fixed-gear and Single-speed

crazybwoy23 · 13th August 2008

hello looks interesting,how would lock respond to being frozen,beaten with large club hammer.
also thinking tungston brazed onto steel could be an idea this destroys most cutting wheels on grinders, if you do not have green cutting disks,the lock body looks good ,master locks are fairly easy to break if you know how to but not sure if still easy on a u lock as have less leverage(ps am not dodgy just lived in squats for 13 years.)

Dylan · 13th August 2008

that weighs more than my mum, but looks good all the same.
good effort!

hippy · 13th August 2008

Diy Ftw

MrSmith · 13th August 2008

so how have you hardened and tempered it?
welding will have altered the grain structure of the metal

"also thinking tungston brazed onto steel could be an idea this destroys most cutting wheels on grinders"
it's also very brittle.

mechanical_vandal · 13th August 2008

Surely a punch or screwdriver etc hammered in from the non lock end of the bottom bar would either shear the padlock loop or break the metal around the hole in the locking bar pretty quick.
What about taking a standard dlock, cutting the loop down and re-cutting the notch for the lock into it?
Shoulda made two of em and desruction tested one yourself rather than leave it to some pikey to test when its locked to your bike.

Brucy · 13th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrSmith

so how have you hardened and tempered it?
welding will have altered the grain structure of the metal

"also thinking tungston brazed onto steel could be an idea this destroys most cutting wheels on grinders"
it's also very brittle.

grain structure only alters if you quench, leave to cool naturally and structure stays the same. and to harden you heat to cherry and quench a few times sorted. gonna nitride it aswell.

Brucy · 13th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by mechanical_vandal

Surely a punch or screwdriver etc hammered in from the non lock end of the bottom bar would either shear the padlock loop or break the metal around the hole in the locking bar pretty quick.
What about taking a standard dlock, cutting the loop down and re-cutting the notch for the lock into it?
Shoulda made two of em and desruction tested one yourself rather than leave it to some pikey to test when its locked to your bike.

How if there is a cover welded on that end?

Flex · 13th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brucy

grain structure only alters if you quench, leave to cool naturally and structure stays the same. and to harden you heat to cherry and quench a few times sorted. gonna nitride it aswell.

Make sure you temper afterwards!
Actually, what's the best temper for a bike lock? Too hard and it will be brittle, too soft it will be easily cuttable...would spring temper the best compromise?

Pifko · 13th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dylan

that weighs more than my mum, but looks good all the same.
good effort!

Are you saying your find you Mum attractive?...

Brucy · 13th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flex

Make sure you temper afterwards!
Actually, what's the best temper for a bike lock? Too hard and it will be brittle, too soft it will be easily cuttable...would spring temper the best compromise?

I am going to go with surface hardening.

Brucy · 13th August 2008

I call it iron maiden!

Superprecise · 13th August 2008

iron maiden! very good.

Platini · 14th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by runcible rakan

will you be testing it against a variety of tools when you are done?

Like these?

VanUden · 14th August 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pifko

Are you saying your find you Mum attractive?...

Everyone else does...

_JD · 15th August 2008

Have you heat treated and quenched? I'd say you want some martensite in there! ...

13th August 2008	#104
MrSmith Blog Entries: 4	so how have you hardened and tempered it? welding will have altered the grain structure of the metal "also thinking tungston brazed onto steel could be an idea this destroys most cutting wheels on grinders" it's also very brittle.
	quote reply

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13th August 2008	#101
crazybwoy23	hello looks interesting,how would lock respond to being frozen,beaten with large club hammer. also thinking tungston brazed onto steel could be an idea this destroys most cutting wheels on grinders, if you do not have green cutting disks,the lock body looks good ,master locks are fairly easy to break if you know how to but not sure if still easy on a u lock as have less leverage(ps am not dodgy just lived in squats for 13 years.)
	quote reply

13th August 2008	#102
Dylan	that weighs more than my mum, but looks good all the same. good effort!
	quote reply

13th August 2008	#105
mechanical_vandal	Surely a punch or screwdriver etc hammered in from the non lock end of the bottom bar would either shear the padlock loop or break the metal around the hole in the locking bar pretty quick. What about taking a standard dlock, cutting the loop down and re-cutting the notch for the lock into it? Shoulda made two of em and desruction tested one yourself rather than leave it to some pikey to test when its locked to your bike.
	quote reply

13th August 2008	#111
Brucy	I call it iron maiden!
	quote reply

13th August 2008	#112
Superprecise	iron maiden! very good.
	quote reply

15th August 2008	#115
_JD	Have you heat treated and quenched? I'd say you want some martensite in there! ...
	quote reply

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