Me again!

Ok. So. A few weeks ago I posted some pics of the almost ready bike.
BB shell needed a clean out, which it got at Cavendish.

So I get it home, and start putting it all together and it looks a bit tight.
The non-drive side is touching the frame, and the drive side is also touching, see pics.







Ok, so as you can see, no go. I have the Miche Primoto BB, which is adjustable, but I don't think its going to be able to adjust this much? I need like 2mm on each side I reckon.

And if so, how the hell do I do it. Do I just unwind the cups so they stop the cranks settling on the taper properly? I've tried pulling them off, unwinding the shells a bit and putting the back on. I can get enough room on the non-drive, but the drive side is still clipping the frame...

My second (or maybe part of the first) is that I tried to get the non-drive cup all the way out (I was trying to figure out exactly how it supposed to be adjustable) and it was bloody hard work. Now I have it out after lots of cursing, half the cup is threaded. Fs.



Its still got some thread, but some of it has gone.
I did get it 'chased' - All english, and I'm putting in a english BB, whats the problem?

Bahh! Just want to ride the sucker! Thanks for any pointers...
Rob

I don't know how a Miche BB works, but you might find running the chainring on the inside of the spider gives you a better chainline.

Hopefully someone with Miche BB knowledge will be along shortly.

You can't adjust it to make it wider, you can only move it side to side. So if you want more clearance for your cranks, it looks like you need a wider BB (the taper width, not bb shell width)

Hi Sam,

I think if it was on the inside spider, it would have no chance of fitting, the edge of the ring is already close to the frame, never mind if I move it in.. And besides, the chainline doesn't look too bad...



Ok, one last try proved fruitful. I managed to get it all on, so nothing is touching, but its close.
I reckon as soon as I ply some pressure it'll bend half a mill and I'll be back at square one...



What do thee think?

Cheers Johan. Will give this a test ride, if its no good, time for another BB.

What about an extroverted shim?

inveerse shim?

buy a campag 111 bb. the tool is the same if you get chorus/record (and better bb's)
i wouldn't run things that tight because of flex when stomping on the pedals.
or buy some proper cranks.

What, like a shim sock on the taper? I guess that would do the trick.
is it something you would buy, or just a bit of coke tin cut to size?

Anyway. I've been out for a ride, and its not clipping the frame. Just.
I'll try it out for a few days and see how it goes, if it needs something else, then so be it.

i left comments on your flickr. looking at this, i'd say for sure that you need a 111m bb, campag centaur, as mr smith says.

i had this problem with a strada crankset, so i filed off the pegs on the back, it solved the problem. and i ran a miche BB. it was close, but fine. the top of the crank arm wasn't anywhere near the seatstays though. go 111mm.

what the hell kind of monster gear ratio are you riding there?

Ok cool. 111mm it is then. Bah. More Mullah! Anyone want a slightly used and abused Miche BB :D Infact, I have 2. (I lost one, bought another, and then found the other one. Dow.)

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Ca...et/5360022293/ This would do the job then I presume?

--

53 x 18 = 77.4"

Had the 53 already, so went with it. 77" works out well for me though I like it.

77" is ok.

i got a 50t campag pista on order, gone 17t on the back because of availability. works out at 78 or something. raleigh's going to be much lighter.

You could also crimp the stays, that would sort it properly.

Cool cheers for the 'File Here' comment. Was considering it before...

Do you think the extra 1mm is gonna make the difference between Miche and Campag BB?

giz, how do you crimp a stay... I've no idea what you just said :D

If you get a new Centaur BB I believe you'll need another BB tool. The Chorus/Record models use the same tool for your miche (and campag cassette lockrings). I got a Chrous 2nd hand (basically new) for £12 on eBay.

See the extra room created by squishing the stays? Squish the inside for tyre clearance, squish the outside (top one) for crank clearance.

The reason it does not fit it because the wheel is spaced for 130mm road wheels, so the chain stays are too wide. A crimp is a dent or fold in the frame, lots of road frames have then from the factory so you have probably seen it before, to allow for clearance of the chainset. Easy enough to do, although you should probably have done it before you had it painted. Either hit it a few times with a peen hammer (ball or chisel), or use pliers and a small piece of metal. Once you have put a crimp in, you can use any sized whatever and you will have no trouble.

EDIT: Hippy said it much better than me. Say it with pictures.

The list price in Condor of the Centaur BB is under £30, I'll be getting one soon. Give em call.

get a bigger BB, miche do 107 and 110 that will give you extra 1.5 mm on each side

or shave that bit on the spider which sticks out. Like i did to mine.



yours looks like a double chainring spider anyhow.

Ok cheers Dylan.

I think I'm running a 110 already, so upto 111 for me and a bit of trimming just for good measure.
I'll head to Condor today I think, get it sorted out...

Cheers guys :D

But your chainline is way out already, you are just gonna make it even worse, why don't you sort it properly, so you can use the correct length BB, something more like a 107mm? File the back of the crank spider and crimp the frame (or get condor to do it if you don't trust yourself and your off there anyway). Remember its a conversion, so you've got some converting to do.

you can correct the chainline with washers on the rear cog can't you ?

No

+1

why not ?

Where are you intending on the washers going?