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| | #1 |
| | I presume that chain tension is supposed to be constant however on my bareknuckle the chain has tightspot and slackspots it has always been like this and I have never been able to figure out why anyone had this problem and know waht to do Phil BB, sugino 75 cranks, ZEn ring, EAI cog on a Phil hub |
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| | #2 |
| | Your chainring is not 100% round (concentric?). This is pretty normal. There is a method for rejigging the ring on the spider, to lessen the tight/slack discrepancy, somewhere on Sheldon Brown's site. Not really worth doing though unless you're getting near-bind at one spot, and near-dechain at another. |
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| | #3 |
| | ^^^^beat me to it... Aren't a lot of rings slightly oval? When tightening the tension, I read somewhere that you should rotate cranks to the point of the biggest pull before tightening. Something like that anyway which is explained better than I can! Didn't think it would make that much difference though. What is the best way to have your chain anyway? Should it be TIGHT? |
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| | #5 |
| | Yeah.. you loosen the chainring nuts and then tighten somewhat so that the ring will still move. Roll it around and find the tight spot and whack the chain with a spanner or somerthing. This will shift the chainring back on its bolts. Do this until the tension is even all the way around. |
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| | #7 | |
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Me, I like it tight, not quite binding at the tightspot, and so I can't feel any play whilst trackstanding with right foot at 2 o' clock. Dyagetme? | |
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| | #9 | ||
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| | #12 |
| | yeah, that's what you're paying for when you buy a sugino bb and chainset - it comes down to accurate machining and accurate bb installation. i remember trying sheldon's method of whacking the chain and tightening the stack bolts (does anyone still call them that?) gradually (on a road chainset) but it never made a blind bit of difference. even with new chainrings it was the same. i think you just have to live with it. |
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| | #15 |
| | Zen rings are dead expensive, its weird that you're having problems with noticable chain tension issues. I use the vanilla 75 chainrings and have no chain tension problems; pretty even tension throughout the cycle. Have pretty much the same setup as well: Phil hub, EAI cog, Sugino 75 cranks + BB + ring. BTW is this a Sugino Zen ring or a Sugino Zen messenger ring? Could understand if its a Zen messenger ring as they're pretty basic. One easy thing to do is to swap the ring (if you have a spare) and try it with something else. Should help narrow the source of the problem. |
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| | #16 | |
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| | #17 |
| | Well I am glad to find out that it is not just me who has been wacking my chain sheldon style only to find out that this method patently does not work on a 'quality' set up Sure I can slack the chain a little bit But really the tolerances really ought to be a little tighter |
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| | #19 |
| | Sorry to dredge this up but I am now having similar issues. New Miche Chainring. New EAI Cog. More 'play' at one foot forward than the other. Will try the sheldon method tonight but not holding out much hope after reading this. Could it be that the secondhand Miche cranks are forcing the ring out of round? I'll try the tap tap tap-eroo. |
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| | #20 |
| | The problem might be a combination of the chainring and the crank spider. It's likely to help by rotating the chainring relative to the spider, i.e. take the chainring off, noting where it was. Then rotate it forwards by two arms, and try again. If nothing else, it will move the slack spot to somewhere else, so it won't be at all obvious when you're trackstanding. |
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| | #21 |
| | I've never done the sheldon thing yet, but understand what it tries to achieve. However, it may just be that there is a sligh high spot on on the chainring and on the spider, the trick may be to get these high spots 180 degrees opposite so they cancel each other out. Therefore, try out all five rotational positions in turn to see which gives the best results, then when you've found the best do the sheldon thing with the stack bolts. |
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| | #24 | ||
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It sort of worked, as long as the tension was meticulously maintained. Then a near-death experience crossing Farringdon Rd at 25mph finally persuaded me that, in reality, Biopace and fixed are a terrible idea. | ||
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| | #26 |
| | I've tried the sheldon chainring truing/tensioning method and have experienced some minor improvements but not what I was looking for. When cleaning my chain recently though I did notice that the ring moved away from and closer to the seat tube so it's down to the cranks or the BB. It's annoying because you have to set your tension looser than you would like to avoid the binding, but then it's too loose. So I'm thinking about new cranks myself but who knows, it could be the BB. How can you tell if it's the cranks or the BB? Don't want to shell out on cranks and then find out it was the BB all along. |
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| | #30 |
| | I'm tempted to try out this binding thing as the chain tension problem has been annoying me for months. I've also just got myself some chain tugs for the first time as the track ends have started slipping a bit and don't want to risk stripping out the hub threads. You sure it won't knacker the hub and BB bearings? |
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| | #31 |
| | Fsck 'em, that's what I say! Nah, London weather is more likely to knacker the bearings. Don't OVERtighten them just get tension so it's not dangerous (if a little tight). I've ran the Raleigh with iffy tension for ever and no problemo but I don't care about wearing shit out faster, I do care about dropping a chain. |
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| | #32 |
| | the corpulent antipodean speaketh the truth. If you set it so the tightest point is *tight* but not fully binding then ride the fucker it WILL even out, I've done it with three seperate drivetrains over the last year. with a decent chainline, it has to be pretty damn slack to drop, and slack all over to boot |
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| | #33 |
| | I gave it a go today. Turned up the tension just short of binding and what do you know, the smoothest ride I've ever had. Admittedly a touch harder work but worth it for the gain in control. The left/right leg power balance feels more even too. I also felt that it was easier to slow down using the pedals which I usually find extremely difficult and have to stand. So thanks guys. I don't think I'll shell out on new cranks after all. This will do me for a while. |
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| | #35 | |
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Everyone with tension issues should try this first. |