| Upcoming: Fixed #2 Launch Party, LFGSS Xmas Party |
| | #1 |
| | Crank Help! Can you help. I am a bit new to all this but recently bought myself this Bob Jackson - I think it is 1956 one careful owner - then he sold it to me! The crank set was original to the bike and recently i believe the spindle has bent and needs replacing. However it is such an unusual shape that even Bob Jackson are recommending I install a new crank set as this cannot be repaired or replaced. I think this bike needs its original cranks - i love the look of them and don't want to replace them with a modern set. What shall I do?? HAVE YOU SEEN THIS BEFORE? WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND? DO YOU KNOW OF A MODERN SET THAT COULD NEARLY REPLICATE THE LOOK OF THE OLD? DO YOU KNOW A GREAT MECHANIC WHO WOULD TAKE THIS ON AS A PROJECT? I really want to get back on the road so am tempted to give in and just get a new set installed. PLEAE HELP ME!! Thank you! Phil |
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| | #2 |
| | Welcome. Splined cranks !!!! I didn't think splined cranks made an appearance until the 1990's !?? Also I can't imagine how you would bend a spindle, those things are pretty thick. If it is steel, I think you should try and straighten it, get someone who knows what they are doing to heat it and then set it straight. (??) Failing all that a vintage Campagnolo (ebay) might come pretty close on looks and suit your BJ. Nice bike by the way. |
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| | #3 |
| | hmm. Now thinking it may not be the spindle?? Bike shop were pretty unclear and were basically saying get over yourself and get a new set installed! If I had the tools I'd take it apart myself and try to get to the bottom of it! Am using a great website to learn the basics: http://bicycletutor.com/ Thanks for the advice! |
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| | #5 | ||
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Put the screw driver in the notches on the lock ring and tap it around to get it off. Do the same with the cups - get something to stick into those little holes on the outside of the cups (maybe a long screw or thin phillips screwdriver or just some bit of metal) and again gently tap it around to loosen and unscrew. And that is it ! Just remember that both sides turn towards the front of the bike (like the wheels turn when going forward) - that is: one side is reverse threaded. | ||
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| | #7 |
| | aha! Right I'm going to set to and do that. Give it a proper inspection. The bike shop was London Fields Cycles. Very nice people and a nice shop but when I said well do you think I should get BJ to take a look at it they said "Oh are they still going?". Well you can't have done that much research into fixing it if you don't k now the company that made the bike in the first place is still going! |
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| | #9 |
| | EDIT: just to be clear - when I say . . . "Just remember that both sides turn towards the front of the bike (like the wheels turn when going forward) - that is: one side is reverse threaded." I mean when taking the cups and lock ring off: the drive side cup turns clockwise - the non-driveside cup and lock ring turns counterclockwise. |
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| | #11 | |
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Also Stronglight had a similar model - EBAY costliness. ^ cranks are worth less than the chainring! You can see that the cranks / chainrings were interchangeable, thats why i suspect yours may also fit. | |
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| | #16 | |
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You could try Witcombes in Deptford otherwise you can try out these guys: www.classicrendezvous.com/ Good luck | |
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| | #17 |
| | This method always worked for me, if you do it slowly and methodically you should be fine. I even install BBs this way if a pin spanner and lock ring tool are not to hand. But I have to agree that if you can go and buy a pin spanner and a lock ring tool, it makes the job easier. |
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| | #18 |
| | pin spanner is the easiest tool in the work to make aside from a hammer. if your unsure on it take a bolt that fits into the hole and put a screw driver between it and the axle and use it like a spanner. if you can get a chunk of metal then two holes and two bolts you have a pin spanner (you may need a hole in the middle too) . hell i've even seen it done with a peice of wood and two nails. just go easy on it. |
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| | #19 |
| | Those are Williams AB77 cranks - the finest British cranks available in the 1960s: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...ification.html You often see them installed on Moulton "S Speed" factory specials. The bolt circle is the same as the TA 5vis/Stronglight 50.4mm, so you can fit the adapter and ring to TA Pro 5vis or Stronglight 49D cranks or a host of clones and copies. The ring is probably a 151mm bcd, which was the old track standard before 144mm took over. In terms of splined crank history, Williams weren't the first: Gnutti were doing it in the fifties. |
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| | #21 | |
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| | #23 | |
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You're right that they were the finest British cranks of the 60s but I went back to a Stronglight 49D/TA set-up after a couple of seasons due to the design flaw in the AB77s: because of the splined axle the corresponding splines in the cranks opened up at the pointed tips. The problem for pjoseph29 in getting a period replacement is the crank extractors. The Williams AB77 extractor (which I still have) was more or less the same as Campagnolo's. The TA (a French company) extractor of the time was 23.0mm, Stronglight's (also a French company) was 23.15mm whereas everyone else was, and still is, using 22.0mm - aren't the French great?. Stronglight extractors of that size are now quite rare and relatively expensive. VAR do an extractor tool (no. 393) which is double ended: 22.0mm and 23.0mm so TA would be an option otherwise there were some Japanese cranks produced which used the 50.4mm BCD and so would take the TA rings which achieve the right look. | |
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| | #24 |
| | Stronglight Cranks Option Wow! Amazing knowledge and advice! I am a bit lost I have to say! I could buy this stronglight set on ebay but do you think I can get them to fit? Would I try to fit the stronglight cranks to my chain ring, or simply replace with this chain ring? I bow to your superior knowledge - I am a novice I'm afraid! |
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| | #25 |
| | SPEC ON THE STRONGLIGHT CRANKS An Excellent Stronglight 49D & TA Combination. The Cranks are 49D with 170mm length, excellent tapers and threads, the logos are the early ones with `depose` only (not Marque Depose). Attached is a good early Logo TA Dural Forged 52 Tooth Ring. All in good order. |
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| | #26 |
| | £87 ?!?! Watch and wait and just buy the crank arms to save ££s you should be able to get a slightly more modern pair for £20 if you are patient. I know your bike is unrideable - but unless you are really want period-correctness, it's a waste of monneys IMO. Those cranks have some real history. EDIT - you will need a Bottom Bracket aswell. If you buy me a 111mm campagnolo chorus Bottom bracket I will give you my TA cranks and a bottom bracket. :-) not the chainring. ![]() |
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| | #28 |
| | Hmmm, I know they are expensive. I love the history though! How hard do you think it will be to get a bottom bracket to fit the stronglight cranks? Or is this crazy and in fact I could just buy new cranks and bottom bracket that will fit with my existing chainring and spider??? Will the stronglight cranks fit with my existing chinring and spider>???? |
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| | #30 | |
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| | #32 | |
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What about Sheldon. | |
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