What do you think is the better way to go 1/8 system or 3/32 ?

I have heard good and bad for both, noise, weight, cost etc.

I would appreciate some wisdom from the drive chain overlords.





Cheers.

3/thirty poo works fine but isn't nealry as cool as 1/8, but you can find better quality parts for 1/8, that's it really.

if converting it can be easier/cheaper to stick with 3/32.

for the road. 3/32.

there's plenty of choice for either really, and no reason to change from one to the other if you already have parts.

Why 3/32 for the road ? - This is not a conversion, I am starting from afresh so I am trying to decide what is best as a whole system.

I have heard so many conflicting views I am starting to think that - much like any other situation where views conflict - the truth is 'it don't make no difference' ???

Well... I'm sure to be put right soon, but.... I use 3/32 and when my cranks turn so does my rear wheel and it does it very well indeed. I'm fairly sure that with a 1/8 chain you'll get the same thing phenomenon occuring.
Logic tells me a 1/8 chain may be fractionally heavier, and possibly stronger too, but that shouldn't really make a difference if you're not subjecting your chain to twist. (I haven't broken a chain before wearing one out, but I'm only a slip of a thing)
I think you can get some good stuff only in 1/8 - possibly an advantage? On the other hand it could be argued that 3/32 is more versatile, as you can use a 1/8 chain on 3/32 gear if necessary whereas you couldn't work it the other way round, but i'm not sure you'd ever need it to either.
I think 1/8 chains can be found stupid cheap, whereas 3/32 start a bit more expensive, but I think a lot of people would be disinclined to put bargain basement chains on their dura-ace drivetrains anyway.
I don't know if tracks pros (outside of NJS) have preferences for one or the other, or if they stick with the staus quo and go 1/8; if there is an advantage they'd know it i suppose.

why carry extra weight?

there is no "best" just different. 1/8th is heavier, of course.

too much thinking about things that have already been thought about by many other people (and those thoughts endlessly documented) and not enough riding make Jack a dull boy.

My thoughts exactly, I think the chain, cog and chain ring probably stick another half pound onto your bike.

I have also heard that the really good stuff (read accurate, fixed specific, runtout-less chainrings etc) tend to be 1/8th (?)

'If you have any links to this endless documentation that would be cool, all I could find was inconclusive forum threads on various boards.

Anyone else got anything better than the usual 'don't think about it' epistemological cowardice ;)

have you considered, given the results of your searches, the very real possibility that it really doesn't matter?

course, anyone can tell you what they use, and make up some bullshit about why they think it's better.

I would go with 3/32 every time. It opens up so much choice in equipment (endless bargain Campag chainsets/rings for one) and a basic 3/32 Sram PC58 chain is more than enough for virtually anyone. Campag Pista/Dura Ace Track 1/8 pukka stuff may be better and stronger for athletes buting a gut on a velodrome but the vast majority of 3/32 is better quality/smoother/lighter than the majority of run of the mill 1/8 stuff IMHO.

PS - I'm coming from an offroad SS perspective (Campag road chainset, Surly cog, PC58) - and fixed offroad too sometimes. Road use should be a lot less destructive on any drivetrain.

epistemological cowardice

there's one of those churches at the end of my road

Yes that is a consideration, let me quote from earlier on in this very thread:

Tynan: I have heard so many conflicting views I am starting to think that - much like any other situation where views conflict - the truth is 'it don't make no difference' ???

Cheers for the input max.

:)

All churches are based on epistemological cowardice !

I love the look on this kids face.

looking for a pic of a tshirt a guy was wearing when he gave me a tract

'hang around with jesus 'cos he hung around for you' - fantastic t shirt!

like this one as well - bwoy!

I love a good christian tract, they actually make me laugh out loud, the Jack Chick ones are brilliant, a tour de-force of intellectual dishonesty.

I have used both and would go for 1/8 for strength and durability, although I did spend a couple of Winters on fixed training for road racing where I ran an 1/8 chain on 3/32 ring and sprocket and it was VERY smooth.

If I was doing it from scratch I would go 1/8.

Cheers for the input Zippie.

I could never make up my mind, so I ended up going for a 7/64" drivetrain. Looks set to become the new road-fixed standard.

no answers to the question i'll just tell u what i use

full 1/8 on track bike
1/8 chain 1/8 cog 3/32 ring on conversion hack bike - a bit more forgiving with chainline etc etc

My drivetrain:



On a serious note, is 1/8 the track standard? because my bianchi pista came with full 3/32. I now have 1/8 chain & cog with a 3/32 chainring. Runs mighty mighty smooth and quiet.

Yet another car with a chimney !

damn!

yes 1/8th is indeed track standard

I use a 1/8 because it bring me closer to god.

I couldn't decide so I have two bikes and run both.

For road use, either 1/8 or 3/32 it matters not. Chainline, chain tension, wear and the quality of the chain and installation are more important than width.
Racing track I personally would go for 1/8th but pursuiters will run 3/32 to save weight. DA track cogs come in 1/8th AND 3/32 so.. um.. yeah..

Here's an opinion that's not mine: http://www.63xc.com/gregg/gregchai.htm

do we agree that it doesn't matter? are we all singing from the same hymn sheet?

Yeah, sounds like MrSmith.
If you're Chris Hoy go for 1/8th. If you're not buy whatever.

Standard, #40(1/2" pitch), industrial, power transmission chain is three times wider than a 3/32" bicycle chain and has bushings for the rollers to pivot on. It is made this way because it is designed for single chainline (like an SS or fix) applications where it is subjected to far greater loads than a bicycle could ever generate and is expected to have a very long service life.

1/8" track chain (with bushings) is basically a narrower version of this kind of chain and is the best chain for a single chainline bicycle drivetrain.

3/32" bushingless bicycle chain was designed to be cheaper to manufacture (without the bushings) and more laterally flexible to enable it to shift from cog to cog without breaking or wearing rapidly with multiple chainline drivetrains (bikes with derailers).

Unfortunately this means that quality 1/8" chains with bushings and sprockets / cogs are getting harder and harder to come by but they are out there and when set up properly will outlast a 3/32" system on a SS or fix.

@1/8th is better: even though this might be the case, does it really matter? we are riding bicycles for fun/commute, not designing industrial factories or machines that need to be running at 99.9% of the time and with as high efficiency as possible.

1/8th is easy to come by. You can get 1/8th chains in evans, and 1/8th sprockets from any specialst bike shop (possibly even some evanses)

Evans has a single, cheap 1/8th chain available on their website.
The 'bang for buck' ratio is out when it comes to good 1/8th chains on the road. Even if it does outlast the equivalent 3/32 chain, you should be changing them more often than 'wearing them to the end'.
If you've got 1/8th, run it but I wouldn't bother swapping over to 1/8th just because of some (falsely) perceived strength benefit.