| | #57 |
| | i found an easy calculator on the web http://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html |
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| | #64 |
| | Good question but one of those how long is a piece of string kind of questions. It will depend on how strong a rider you are, what type of terrain you're riding, distance and mostly personal preference. It's a good place to start but as Andyp mentioned above, you can always go up a tooth on the rear cog if it doesn't feel comfortable. Personally I'm on 44/19 at the minute and I love the spinnyness in traffic and at lights but not so good on the long straights. I have also run 44/18 and 44/17 at times. Again it's about finding the right gear for you. Take your time, get used to it. Enjoy. Repeat. |
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| | #65 |
| | This is a very useful calculator aplet: http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/ It factors in crank length and rolling diameter. I work on metres gain: For general riding I aim at 6m, which on my Langster = 16/46 with 700 x 23mm tyres and 172.5mm cranks. I started off much lower and have built up to what appears to be, for me, a nice comfortable gearing. Toodle pip |
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| | #73 |
| | Personally I'd rather struggle up hills then spin out on the way down, but thats just me. I'd say 72" sounds good for cornwall. Its not so much hills, but stop/start city cycling that warrants a lower gear (IMHO). I ride 48:16 and its rubbish in town, as I cant pull away from lights quickly or accelerate out of trouble. On open country roads, with rolling hills, its fanatastic though. potetskrel? ![]() |
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| | #76 | |
| | Quote:
I'm converting the bike to 41:23 for a mountian climb I'm doing in a few months, should be interesting. | |
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| | #77 |
| | This thread has got me thinking about changing by ratio. I used 42:16 for nearly my whole time on fixed, since 2004 but changed to 44:16 toward the end of last year. I did enjoy my original ratio which I found pretty good for all occassions even long distances such as London to Brighton. But thought I'd like a bit more top speed and perhaps a faster cruising speed. But over the past few months my experience has been just general hard work especially going from a standing start and in a headwind. My overall average speed is not much higher if at all. So I'm thinking of dropping down a notch. I've gone from a 71 gear up to a 74 so perhaps 73 would be just right. So my question is this: 43:16 or 46:17? I don't skid by the way. With the first option I'd just have to get a new chainring. But with the second I'd have to get both. Any thoughts?? |
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| | #80 | |
| | Quote:
thanks for the link | |
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| | #83 |
| | ha cheers guys, i just came on here to ask about whether 47/18 was a good ratio, trawled through the first page looking for anyone who had talked about it and i find it right at the end. nice one, think I'll give it a try. do you reckon it'll be alright in a really flat area (cambridge) cheers. |
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| | #94 |
| | I'm quite new to fixed and am riding 48x15 which is starting to have an adverse impact on my knees. I'm undecided whether to move to 48x17 or 44x15 to ease the pressure. Can anyone advise which would be better and also where would be good to pick up either a 17tooth sprocket (plus lockring - I'll use the unoccupied flop side of my flip flop)or a 44tooth chainring this weekend. I don't want to spend too much on either but would like something half decent. Cheers, Ben |
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| | #95 | |
| | I have a 17t Miche sprocket you can have for £8 Its probably easier (and cheaper) to just change the back rather than the front Quote:
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| | #100 |
| | Yes and it's my first time fixed. I find the peddling fine but I think at 78GI it's a bit too hard to stop quickly without brakes. If I change to 70GI is it going to make slowing and stopping easier? Also is there any real difference between 48/18 and 42/16 aside from 0.4GI? |
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